Wave Breaking and Wave Driven Flow in the Nearshore
نویسنده
چکیده
Understanding wave dissipation in the nearshore is approached through modeling of field observations obtained across a variety of beach profiles and under a wide range of wave conditions. Wave breaking data are obtained remotely from video recordings of the surf zone, and image processing techniques subsequently used to detect and quantify the position and time of wave breaking occurrences over spatial and temporal scales ranging 10-1000 meters and 10-10000 seconds. The observed spatial distribution of ensemble-averaged wave breaking patterns are used in combination with collaborative measurements of in situ wave pressure and velocity to improve wave dissipation estimates, and subsequently applied to parametric models of incident wave energy transformation, mean current forcing, and sediment transport within the surf zone. This work is being conducted collaboratively Dr.’s E. B. Thornton and T. P. Stanton of the Naval Postgraduate School, and Dr.’s A. E. Hay and A. J. Bowen of Dalhousie University.
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